Sorry, this entry is only available in European Spanish.
por Iosu Pezonaga
Resumen de la juerga. Así hemos empezado la que va a ser una de las mejores juergas de la historia.
OPEN CEREMONY LIVE, JUNE 6
This moment is marked by a rocket -the “Txupinazo”- which is set off to announce the start of the Fiesta. All morning, crowds gather in the “Plaza Ayuntamiento”. It is often a hot day and there is not an inch of free space in the packed Square. The passion and intensity grows every minute until it reaches a crescendo at midday. At that point the Mayor and members of the Council step out onto the balconies of the Town Hall to greet the crowds.A nominated person shouts the announcement; “Pamploneses, Pamplonesas, Viva San Fermín! Gora San Fermín!” (people of Pamplona, long live San Fermín!) The crowd responds with cries of “Viva!” and “Gora!” and the rocket is launched into the sky.
At this moment the Square erupts as hundreds of bottles of Champagne are uncorked and sprayed liberally over the crammed crowd. The smart, clean clothes of the excited people take their first, but not their last soaking from the jets of spraying Champagne. All over the city the same collective madness bursts out and a whole new atmosphere reigns in the town.
The first bout of drinking has started as thousands of bottles of champagne are guzzled down for the start of an uninterrupted party until the day of the 14th of July arrives. Within a few hours many people will be on a high that will last for the whole week. The Txupinazo begins a high that for many people will last the whole week.
How to take part in the Txupinazo rocket
Open ceremony advices (Chupinazo tricks)
Open ceremony from our balcony
Who launches the txupinazo opening rocket?
List of the persons who have set off the “Txupinazo” since 1941
Open ceremony advices (Chupinazo tricks)
Open ceremony from our balcony
Who launches the txupinazo opening rocket?
List of the persons who have set off the “Txupinazo” since 1941
How to take part in the Txupinazo rocket
If you want to get right in there among the packed crowd it means getting there an hour before and pushing your way in among the packed crowd. If you want to see the spectacle then the best place would be from any one of the many balconies of private houses which surround the square. But of course that means getting an invite from of the owners or to rent the balconies of sanfermin.com. The square is so crammed that it might be better just to go along to one of the surrounding streets where you can feel the atmosphere of the whole thing. Or you can just do the same as many of the locals do, and watch it from the T.V. in some bar or other.
Inside the square
If you want to get right in there among the packed crowd it means getting there an hour before and pushing your way in among the packed crowd. To experience the whole spectacle in this way is unique of course, but remember that you won’t be able to move a muscle in the tight space. It will also very likely be teeming hot even if the heat is only coming from the milling crowd of sweating drinking singing bodies crammed together. Some young people make a very disgusting mixings: quetchup, cacao, mustard, flour, saving foam, etc. The whole thing can be so suffocating that people from the balconies often pour buckets of water over the crammed crowd to give them some relief. There can sometimes be waves of bodies pushed forward and some people can fall to the ground among the avalance of people. When it’s all over the departing crowd often look like they have just come out of an old washing machine what with all the water, champagne and sweating.
There are always some first-aid posts to attend to those who have fainted or bruised themselves, though it has never gotten more serious than something like that.
–It’s no place for kids. They could get stepped on and at their height there is not much air moving round.
–It’s no place for wearing sandals or light shoes. You’re going to get stepped on and also many people drop their empty champagne bottles on the ground when they have finished them, so broken glass is to be found all over the square.
–Don’t wear any clothes that you value, and this is good advice for the whole of the Fiesta.
–Don’t take your camera or any valuables with you. Taking decent photos will be impossible with all the liquid spraying round. And if you drop anything like your wallet or whatever it could be difficult to look for it among the packed crowd.
–If you don’t want to see it inside the plaza, you can just do the same as many of the locals do, and watch it from the T.V. in some bar or other or at the big screens at the Plaza del Castillo.
If you can watch the Open Ceremony from a balcony we can offer to you the best of them. Surely the best balcony to watch the Open Ceremony with the rocket launch (The Txupinazo). You can be exclusive witness of the Fiesta from a safe and privileged position. Our local guides (Spanish, English, French) accompany you to the apartment, from which you can watch the event while enjoying a typical snack with drinks.
There was a contingent of Garmisch adventurers that went to Pamplona every year for the Festival of San Fermin. Bomber was the most experienced runner in the group and told great stories about prior years and the close calls with the horns and riots between Basque locals and the police and military. The first time I heard him talk about Pamplona was when we were getting stoned together in Uganda in the shade of the Sikh temple wall, where they had come looking for a place to stay, but were turned away. I was immediately hooked on the idea of going to Pamplona and running with the bulls and was thinking about Spain when he and Goldie left me to walk through Kampala (3 miles with their packs) to the other Sikh temple to see if they had room for them to stay. The sun was going down and I worried for them. Very few people were on the street at night, it was a dangerous city after dark in 1983.
“The essence of pleasure is spontaneity.”
At the end of the encierro in Pamplona the adrenalin’s edge softens and the sense of relief, satisfaction, fulfilment and even disappointment takes its place. At the same time, amid the Kaiku y cognacs, coffees and conversation, thoughts turn towards breakfast.
There was a time when groups of runners would take the short stroll down Plaza del Castillo, crossing Estafeta and up to Calle de la Merced where they would find a few spare benches outside La Raspa and sit down. The crowd would vary day to day but ultimately it would be a relaxed affair where a group of friends could eat a simple breakfast, share a few bottles of tinto with gaseosa and chat away in a mood of contented camaraderie. The odd jota would meanwhile float over from a nearby table. It was always the perfect way to ease into the day and to transition between the drama of the encierro and the rhythm of fiesta.
Now the tables are all reserved: booked up in advance for the “right people” and the impromptu breakfast has been replaced by a stage-managed event. The very concept of spontaneity has been sacrificed because the breakfast “event” is so popular that everyone wants to join in. Everyone wants a piece of the action and to be seen to be there. When the essence of a thing vanishes what is left is an artificial facsimile of the original.
We have seen it before in so many ways. If you have ever dreamed of visiting a famous monument or notoriously beautiful site then you will be aware that the truth does not match the dream. That amazing view across to Niagra Falls, across the Grand Canyon or up The Mall to Buckingham Palace is not something you can enjoy in the way you imagined. This is because of the sheer mass of humanity getting in the way of the view. The forest of selfie sticks, or ego poles as someone else has described them, has to be waded through and any photograph has to be captured in that split second when a group of Japanese tourists, British schoolchildren or American coach tour is not right in the optimal place.
Popular sites are popular for a reason – people believe they are worth seeing “in the flesh”. Their essence is something that is worth enjoying in person. Yet in doing so we end up killing them through popularity. Pumphrey described it as the “devil’s bargain”, and that experience is greatly diminished not just because it has to be shared with dozens of Antipodean backpackers but because that sense of intimacy, that personal connection, is compromised.
It is very easy to leap up and blame the very modern phenomenon of social media for much of this. After all the attitude that drives so many of us to share our lives with the rest of the world has found a natural home in the digital age. Not only that but there is an accompanying theme of the need to prove how amazing our lives are while sharing them with the world. As a result the selfie stick pervades and every visit to a famous monument or site has to be captured as evidence not only that we were there, but that we were having the most amazing time while we were at it.
Yet it wouldn’t be fair to blame this solely on the rise of social media. As long as humans have been able to travel for leisure and been able to share that experience so the complaints of over-crowding and spoiling have existed.
The famous European Grand Tour was an expected trip for wealthier members of British society, particularly between the 17th and 19th centuries. Yet even as far back as then there were complaints that the circuit was getting too crowded and too rowdy. As Professor Kathleen Burke writes; “The undisciplined and sometimes violent behaviour of young Englishmen was often commented upon; certainly, for the staff of British embassies abroad, the activities of English visitors, ‘each vying with the other who should be the wildest and most eccentric’, were a major preoccupation. ‘Even Russians were impressed by the cohorts of wild English youth they found in the cities of western Europe.’”
Hemingway too acknowledged the down side to the popularity of something so beloved. “Pamplona was rough, as always, overcrowded… I’ve written Pamplona once, and for keeps. It is all there, as it always was, except forty thousand tourists have been added. There were not twenty tourists when I first went there… four decades ago.”
Social media has merely exacerbated this and contributed to it on a global level. Take a trip to San Sebastián, home of the most wonderful pintxos and tapas, and you will see what popularity has done to this culture. The principle of tapas, how tapas traditionally works in Spanish towns and cities, has been erased. In its place there is a much more stage-managed, tourist-friendly version where the bars do not want people to pop in for a mini and a single pintxo. Now they hand you a plate and encourage you to stay long and spend deep in order to keep the cash registers ringing. (This is not to denigrate the gastronomy of San Sebastián, which is outstanding).
This is not how tapas works elsewhere, but San Sebastián has become popular on a mercurial scale. When this happens a critical mass is reached and something has to give. As Hassan Bougrine points out; “…the essence of the capitalist economy is the need to ‘make money’.” No wonder that tradition is distorted. Though perhaps some would say that it is actually more positive – an evolution that gives the customers what they want. Given that a high proportion of those present in the Basque city are foreign travellers, that evolution to ‘Tapas Tourism’ is not surprising.
The intense beauty of Cornish fishing villages is such an allure that those with enough income have been buying holiday homes there for many years. This has had such a negative impact on the communities, effectively destroying the villages outside the holiday seasons, that bans on purchasing second homes now exist in a number of Cornish locations.
The essence of a thing is so fragile, so precious and so difficult to grasp that when we reach for it, it vanishes. Like grasping a handful of sand on the beach, the tighter we hold on the less we are able to keep a grip on it and the sooner it slips through our fingers and is gone. We rarely aim to destroy the essence of a thing intentionally, we merely realise that it has happened almost by stealth and the truth of our impact has crept up on us, seemingly out of nowhere. Yet, destroy the essence of something we most certainly do.
With something fragile and something so desirable the answer, surely, is to handle with care. We want to reach out and grasp something that shines and yet, like ice crystals, the very touch itself can destroy the thing. In this case it must be wiser to enjoy a thing in the moment and be prepared to walk away, to change and to sacrifice the very thing we love so as not to destroy it. This is not easy for, in the moment, we are normally overtaken by the desire to sink ourselves into the experience. Similarly we often destroy one small cut at a time and may not recognise it until it is too late.
Surely as soon as we feel a thing we love is at risk of being stage-managed or that its essence has been compromised or killed by popularity we should be prepared to walk away. Perhaps we should even be prepared to walk away long before then. Take the post-encierro breakfast as an example. If we attend every single day are we expecting too much from it? Are we forcing the fun to fulfil an expectation or are we merely contributing to the destruction of its essence. Once something becomes routine it is no longer special.
That is not to say that such things should cease and many people find enjoyment in routine. Some would even claim that they are able to hold onto the essence of something even when it is a routine.
One of the most common complaints is that the encierro has been destroyed through being too popular. Complainants point to the crowded streets and the high proliferation of non-Spanish runners (estimated to be 45% in 2017) as contributing factors. Talk to any “old timer” and they will generally yearn for a time when the streets were quieter, when you had space to run and when you could actually see the bulls. The essence of the encierro has gone, replaced by backpackers, beginners and wishful thinking.
The evidence does not totally support this view.
The encierro has been popular for a very long time and crowding is most certainly not a modern phenomenon. Old black and white photographs and even film reels show crowded streets, a crowded Plaza de Toros, pile ups and packed barriers going back many decades – all seemingly without killing off the soul of the encierro.
Additionally, the modern crowding is not getting any worse according to figures released by the Ayuntamiento of Pamplona. An article published on sanfermin.com highlighted the fact that some years, such as 2012, saw over 20 thousand runners take part across the 8 days, while others much less. 2017 was estimated to have had around 16 thousand runners. Volumes also vary dramatically from day-to-day. It would appear that a patient and determined runner can find space on the right day if he bides his time and takes his chances.
So while it is true that we often smoother the thing we love and destroy its essence, sometimes the thing we love is not actually dead and we just need to look at it slightly differently. Perhaps, as in San Sebastián, we need to experience it differently and re-learn what the essence now is. Ultimately we need to acknowledge that the essence of a thing is fleeting, transient and that we should enjoy what we can of it while it lasts.
Hoy hemos conocido los carteles definitivos para la Feria del Toro de Sanfermin de 2019 en la Casa de Misericordia. Abrirán los encierros los astados de Puerto de San Lorenzo y terminaremos las fiestas con Miura. Veremos a Cayetano y al Juli en la Feria y no faltará Roca Rey. Podrá ser un Sanfermin de toros y encierros inolvidables.
CARTELES DE LA FERIA DEL TORO 2019
Viernes 5 de julio 2019, a las 20:00
Novillos de Ganadería de Pincha de Lodosa (Navarra), para los novilleros:
Francisco de Manuel, Antonio Grande y Diego San Román
Sábado 6 de julio 2019
Toros de El Capea, de San Pelayo de Guareña (Salamanca), para los caballeros rejoneadores:
Pablo Hermoso de Mendoza, Leonardo Hernández y Roberto Armendáriz.
Domingo 7 de julio 2019
Toros de Puerto de San Lorenzo, de Tamames (Salamanca) para los matadores:
Emilio de Justo, Alberto López Simón y Ginés Marín.
Lunes 8 de julio 2019
Toros de Cebada Gago, de Medina Sidonia (Cádiz) para los matadores:
Manuel Escribano, Rubén Pinar y Juan del Álamo.
Martes 9 de julio 2019
Toros de José Escolar, de Lanzahíta (Ávila), para los matadores:
Fernando Robleño, Javier Castaño y Pepe Moral
Miércoles 10 de julio 2019
Toros de Jandilla, de Mérida (Badajoz) para los matadores:
Diego Urdiales, Sebastián Castella y Roca Rey
Jueves 11 de julio 2019
Toros de Victoriano del Río, de Guadalix (Madrid), para los matadores:
Antonio Ferrera, Julián López “El Juli y Pablo Aguado.
Viernes 12 de julio 2019
Toros de Núñez del Cuvillo, de Vejer de la Frontera (Cádiz) para los matadores:
Miguel Ángel Perera, Cayetano y Andrés Roca Rey.
Sábado 13 de julio 2019
Toros de La Palmosilla, de Tarifa (Cádiz) para los matadores:
Román, José Garrido y Javier Marín
Domingo 14 de julio 2019
Toros de Miura, de Lora del Río (Sevilla) para los matadores:
Rafael Rubio “Rafaelillo”, Octavio Chacón y Juan Leal.
PRECIOS DE LAS ENTRADAS DE LA FERIA DEL TORO 2019
DATOS DEL PROGRAMA OFICIAL
¿Crees que te estamos mintiendo si te decimos que Justin Bieber sale disfrazado de helado corriendo en el encierro de Sanfermin en su último video (I don´t care) junto a Ed Sheeran? Pues no te mentimos. Es verdad. El pasado 10 de mayo se estrenaba el video I don´t care en el que colaboran Bieber y Sheeran. Éste último es uno de los autores de la canción y a su vez intérprete y se intercala con Justin como primera voz del tema a lo largo de la canción.
El video es una risa porque mezcla imagen real y animación y le dan rienda suelta a la imaginación a nivel gráfico. Se podría decir que lo pensaron en una juerga sanferminera y nadie se ha atrevido que se les ha ido la pinza porque son Sheeran y Bieber. Y tiene pinta de que se rieron bastante mientras lo grabaron ya que ambas estrellas del rock salen disfrazados de diferentes mascotas mientras de fondo aparecen diferentes situaciones festivas. Entre ellas se cuela Sanfermin donde superponen a Bieber haciendo como que corre. Le invitamos a venir de verdad que mola más, aunque sea a verlo desde un balcón de Sanfermin.
El video lleva más de 2,5 millones de reproducciones y todos ellos habrán podido detenerse a los 2,43 segundos para rascarse los ojos tras pensar “Creo que he visto a Justin Bieber corriendo el encierro vestido de helado”… y así es. Rásquese. Pero Justin sale corriendo el encierro. No salen toros para que no les escriba el PETA, pero tiene cierto sentido ya que el tema de cuenta que no se encuentran bien en una fiesta, a no ser que estén junto a su amor. Veniros los cuatro en julio, que es mejor la realidad que la ficción.
No obstante, vemos la trascendencia del encierro de Sanfermin que se cuela en las mejores juergas internacionales.
Bill lives in Ontario, Canada. He is a monitor of risk sports and he remembers the first time he ran the running of the bulls from the Santo Domingo stretch. A runner by his side, with a look of panic, told him just before the bulls were released, “I don’t think my travel insurance policy will cover this.” And it turned out to be that case. At times, Bill has thought about taking part in the running of the bulls since then, but he feels the risk is higher than the profession he performs in his working life as a monitor of risk sports.
Chris after his experiences in the 1995 Sanfermines, expressed his attitude as follows: “Forget about Bungee jumping, forget about the jalopy car racing, forget the rest…This really guarantees an authentic adrenaline boost. There are no security nets; there are no safety belts or airbags. You and a dozen bulls running in among a couple of thousand runners who are just as terrified…as you.”
Chris encourages his American colleagues to take part in the running of the bulls and gives some sound advice, considering that he has been a runner from abroad. His final piece of advice is “Ensure that you have good medical insurance, and it is probably wise to make sure that your will is up to date.”
Planning to run with the bulls? Jump off cliffs?
Check your coverage
There are two insurance policies made by Pamplona City Hall and by the organizers of the bull fair – the Casa de Misericordia. These serve to cover compensations in cases of disablement or death. Those injured or wounded and born within the province of Navarra, or from neighboring provinces, receive free medical treatment from The Public Health Service. However, foreigners are charged through their medical insurance. Anyone injure or wounded will obviously be given full treatment with no questions asked, but later The Navarra Health Service will try to have the cost paid by the patients medical insurance.
The hospital is obliged to charge by law
The Navarra Public Health Service is obliged, by law, to charge for its health care, when there always exists a third party to pay, as occurs in the case of traffic accidents. Consequently, in the case of people who are resident in another country, they must try to find someone to take responsibility for the costs. In any case, all patients can leave the hospital without paying the cost – which does not occur in some other countries – and there have been cases where the Embassy of the infirm person has had to affront the costs of their citizens in cases of insolvency. In the case of other European countries, there exists a corresponding compensation system between the different national health systems.
When it comes to paying, the costs in Navarra are quite cheap in comparison with other health systems in the first world. So, consequently, if someone decides to take part in the running of the bulls without any kind of insurance, and should he be admitted to hospital, he can be assured of receiving good attention and the hospital bill will be lower than if it had occurred in any other place.
Difficulties to get insured
Whoever comes to Pamplona from abroad, could find some problems if they need treatment arising from some accident in the running of the bulls. For example, World Nomads is one of the biggest travel agencies in the world for travel insurance. In its publicity on the web page, Nomads announces instant universal insurance all round the world, but when faced with a specific request for travel insurance from an American citizen who wanted to take part in the Pamplona running of the bulls, the answer was. “Regretfully, as part of our policy we cannot cover you as an American citizen or resident to take part in the running of the bulls.”
The Allianz Insurance Company, in its coverage of travel agencies who organize trips from Australia, New Zealand and The United States, has a list of activities which are covered and a list which is excluded from coverage. The traveler can take a ride on an elephant and if there is a fall, there is coverage… but if a Polar Bear attacks off the track of the polar safari, besides dying of fright or even really dying, there is no insurance cover in this case. And watch out…another one of the activities excluded is the Running of the Bulls, whether or not there are any safaris…
Without specifically stating Pamplona, but using the expression “running with the bulls” the text reads: “I assume and accept the risks and dangers and the possibility of suffering personal harm and being hospitalized…” This kind of formula is now common to inform tourists that they have been warned of the risks and the element of chance which lies in the running of the bulls…
For example, another recent warning came from the Sidney Morning Herald, in Australia, when it recently informed its readers that jumping from the Navarreria fountain or taking part in the running of the bulls, is not recommended by the principal insurance companies.
Another example we could consider comes from The Association of American Programs in Spain which specifically recommends that travelers should not take part in risk activities and cites the running of the bulls as a clear example of this. It reminds travelers that both tourists and local runners have both suffered serious and mortal accidents over the years in the running of the bulls.
Another of the formulas being used at present by some agencies is to have a form signed which renounces all rights of suing made by the travelers if they take part in the running of the bulls and something happens to them. These forms free the agency from all responsibility in the matter and oblige the person who signs to assume that “I am conscious of the risks inherent in the running of the bulls and I am conscious of other added risks and dangers coming from other runners (…) that there are runners who are unaware of the dangers inherent in the running of the bulls and who could act irrationally and prejudice me in the participation of the running of the bulls.(…) I am conscious that the enjoyment and the emotion of the running of the bulls comes, in part, from the participation of the bulls and if I choose to take part it is at my own volition and risk, and my responsibility and at my own expense.”
There are also some overstatements such as the agency that states that in Sanfermin, the muggings increase exponentially and it is not safe to go out alone at night. The solution, of course, is to contract insurance…
Al Dj Jean Carles Ferrer no le deja indiferente sanfermin y ha realizado su personal aportación musical con el tema “San Fermín On The World“. De estilo Dance Music asume la tradición musical sanferminera y le da un aire más actual. Nos contactó por Facebook y nos contaba: “Os presento mi nuevo trabajo Musical llamado San Fermín On The World una nueva canción de San Fermín al más estilo y puro Dance Music y con todo mi cariño para estas Fiestas de San Fermín 2019.”
Jean Carles Ferrer trabaja y vive en Ibiza como Dj y realiza sus propias composiciones. En este video podemos ver la evolución de otras de sus composiciones sobre el propio teclado.
La licencia del tema recae sobre IBIZA SOUND DELUXE RECORDS y SGAE (16611264) y ya está disponible en Spotify.